Bon Apetit: Open Markets in Rome

Rome's busy markets are an important part in Italian culture. People living in Rome are accustomed to open air markets in their shopping experience. Traditionally, tourists visit the historical places of the area they are visiting. However, I have realized that living in Rome for a month now that it is important for a tourist to visit the open air markets because it is a great cultural experience to breathe in the traditional atmosphere of the city. They provide a great place to find bargains on a wide variety of products. Even if you don’t need to buy anything, it is fun and exciting to walk around and enjoy the atmosphere. Some markets are only open on Sundays, while others are during the week. The history of Rome's traditional marketplaces all started during World War II when they appeared as black markets but then soon transformed into open air markets selling products of all kinds. Before that, marketplaces on Sundays were popular for selling groceries where people used to come early in the morning, shop for the entire day and return home with a weeks’ worth of groceries. I have only been to three markets, so I will describe my experience at them.

Porto Portese is the biggest flea market in Rome, and one of the biggest in Europe, which is located right outside my apartment building in Trastevre. People can find an assortment of goods, from lamps to underwear to auto parts to scarves to jewelry, etc. On any given Sunday up to 4,000 stalls open shop to sell all kinds of merchandise, including antiques (as well as a lot of junk), second hand clothes, books, magazines, decorative items and house wares. It does not however sell food products which is disappointing. I really miss eating sweet potatoes and am trying to find them at the markets. It starts at 7am and lasts until 2pm, but it gets crowded so going earlier is better. It is a bit overwhelming but it’s fun because you never know what you might find, so as long as you can handle tons of people and are willing to bargain for prices, it is a great experience. Every Sunday that I am in Rome, I get up and go to the market. I have not really needed anything, but I go and see what I can find. It is a unique experience and really shows me how Italians bargain. I have learned to walk away if the item is priced too high, and the seller will usually give in and sell you the product for the price you want. I bought a pair of sunglasses, originally 10euro, and instead got them for 6 euro.

Campo dei Fiori is a very old popular Roman market that sells a wide range of goods such as fruits, vegetables, flowers, pastas, fish, pork, and some of the best bread. In addition to the fresh fruits and vegetables, you'll find cheap scarves, aprons and t-shirts, and jewelry. Shops in the surrounding piazza sell meats, wines and other food products such as the bakery Il Forno di Campo de' Fiori (where I got a cornetto for .46euro that was warm and delicious), fish at Attanasio, and the butcher shop, Antica Norcineria Viola. The prices are not cheap, but the quality is the best. It is open from 6am-2pm Monday through Saturday. I think of this outdoor market as like a farmer’s market in the US. There are so many different cheeses, meats, and breads along with a variety of fruits and vegetables that all look so fresh and delicious. I walk by this market almost every day in between classes and just observe the variety of products and the people buying them. I have never actually bought anything from this market, but I am looking for some cheap sundried tomatoes so I hope to buy those soon!

Today 5 of us from the program met up with four Italian students from Roma Tre to explore the Trionfale Market located near the Vatican museum. This market is known for being the most inexpensive open market in Rome. Trionfale Market runs along both sides of Via Andrea Doria, offering several goods at very low prices. We were supposed to go to this specific market because it is where local Romans shop and we trying to immerse ourselves in their lifestyle. At the market you will find a variety of clothing, house ware items, fruit, vegetables, meat, cheese, wine, and breads. Best of all, they had sweet potatoes!!! The fruit looked incredible and fresh! We bought a pack of strawberries and ate them as we were walking! There was a stand that had homemade pasta which looked unbelievably good! My favorite part of this trip was seeing fish that were just cut up into slices, notice the picture below. I think it was a swordfish. I loved seeing a market that tourists do not go to. I felt very “Italian” shopping there. It was an fascinating experience getting to know Italian students more but also be in a neighborhood that is hidden to tourists. I plan to go back to Trinofale Market and buy some sweet potatoes and fresh raspberries!

Going to all of these open markets in Rome are enjoyable and fun filled experiences. I like just going and seeing what I come home with. Today was strawberries, what will I get Sunday at Porto Portese Market in Trastevre? I am thinking new boots.